"There is no love sincerer than the love of food"
George Bernard Shaw, Man and Superman (1903) act 1

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Thai Style Chicken Wings Three Ways

Pok-Pok is a Portland OR Thai restaurant that has no equal in the region.  It is real, flavourful Asian food.  One of the signature dishes is called Fish Sauce Chicken Wings.  It is made using a standard Chinese Cooking technique that involves deep-frying meat and then briefly stir-frying it with aromatic ingredients such as ginger, scallions, and garlic (the so called Chinese Mirepoix), soy sauce, chile, vinegar and sugar. 

It is a true challenge to the home chef to recreate favourite fried dishes. I have done a lt of deep-frying at home.  I have never really enjoyed it.  It is a huge mess; it costs a lot for the oil; it is a pain to dispose of unusable oil; who has a pan big enough to cook everything at once?; the Frier (aka the cook, aka me or maybe you!) is so busy frying that they don’t get to eat their fill.  Although on rare occasions I will consider deep frying, I will not do it on a regular basis.  Unfortunately, I really, really love fried food.  With that in mind, I have developed three separate recipes which recreate the spirit if not the letter of Pok-Pok’s dish.   They all use basically the same ingredients, but they are each cooked a different ways

Roasted – For the Winter - 1

Heat oven to 400 F, cut each wing into two pieces at the larger joint, and add to a shallow roasting pan.  Toss with oil and seasonings.  Cook about 30 minutes, tossing the wings every five to ten minutes.  The result will be akin to a braise, but by the end they should have caramelized and absorbed all of the liquids.  Your pan will be a sticky mess, but the wings will be delicious.  Be sure to serve a lot of napkins.  Although I serve citrus with pretty much everything, it is especially necessary here.

Four Wings, cut at the joint
Neutral oil or lard
Soy Sauce
One Head of chopped garlic
A thumb sized piece of ginger, chopped
Sugar
Salt if needed
Lots and lots of ground pepper (1/8 cup)
Fresh Lime Wedges


Stir-fried – For the Spring - 2

This is the closest to the traditional Thai dish recipe.

Heat a pan to smoking hot on high, and oil wait till it shimmers.  Add your chile sauce, ginger, and then wings.  Cook until the wings start to brown and are cooked to safety.  Add your garlic, stir 15-30 secs, then your fish sauce (5 secs) and then your sugar.  Stir until the wings take on a delicious caramelized exterior.

Four Wings, cut at the joint
Oil
Fish Sauce
One Head of chopped garlic
A thumb sized piece of ginger, chopped
Sugar
Salt if needed
Fresh Lime Wedges


Grilled – For the summer - 3

This is great for the summer, and honestly works well with a whole chicken or other parts only if that is what you have.  Ideally the wings would have been marinated for 24-48 hours, but you can also do it up while the coals are starting.  Start your charcoal grill as normal.  Marinate the wings and simply grill as usual, cooking until done.  Then toss with the fresh herbs.  Serve with lime of course

Four Wings, cut at the joint

For the Marinade
Oil
Fish Sauce
One Head of chopped garlic
A thumb sized piece of ginger, chopped
Honey
Crushed tomatoes

Chopped Cilantro, Rau-Ram, and/or basil
Salt if needed
Fresh Lime Wedges

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